18 May 2007 Friday
Vacation day
I spent the day preparing for the trip. This included a trip to Tucson to purchase food, a 20 inch bicycle tire (which the cycle shop did not have, and fortunately we didn't need), and a pair of loose fitting pants for trip. After I finished packing, had kissed Barbara goodbye, and was getting in the car to leave, I noticed dark, wet looking stains in the front, drivers side wheel well. Upon inspection, I found a ruptured CV boot. I took a pair of CB boots in the shed and drove to Nathen's, with the intent to fix the problem the next day.
19 May 2007 Saturday
Bright and early I removed the tire, placed the car on a jack stand, and pulled out the half axle. This required removing 4 tire lug nuts, a nut on the axle, and 2 bolts securing the wheel assembly to the frame, and took less than 10 minutes to accomplish. A simple tug removed the half axle, and within 15 minutes of starting I had removed old boots and cleaned the old grease off the bearings. Then the problems began. The new boots I brought with me fit the Geo Prizm currently in Symantha's possession. So, after several phone calls, we drove to Showlow and bought new boots for my Geo Metro. The store claimed to have only the outer boot, and after some consideration, I determined to make one of them double for the inner boot. This caused me some concern, but upon reading the packaging, one of the new boots claimed to be a "universal" model that would fit either side of the Metro (and several other cars as well). The repair proceeded smoothly until we were bending the very last securing tab into place, when a slip of the screwdriver produced a ventilated inner boot. I figured we could use it anyway, but after some "discussion" Nathen convinced me that it didn't quite meet design specs, so we were again off to Showlow to procure yet a third boot (for some odd reason, each auto parts store in that town carried only one boot so we had the pleasure of visiting with sales reps. in three different establishments). From there the repairs went well until until I tried to remove the plug in the side of the transmission to refill the oil lost when the axle was removed. It wouldn't budge, so instead of risking damage to the case, I limped down to Jiffy Lube where they topped off my transmission oil (and didn't charge me [apparently they couldn't find a price in their computer]). So it was about 2 in the afternoon when we finally got the tires rolling towards the north country. We drove to Dave's and arriving about 0115 local time (1215 a.m. our time [we decided to ignore daylight saving time]). We bought 1.65 quarts of carmel praline pecan ice cream (notice this is second downsized again from the first 1.75 quart downsize--pretty soon ice cream will come in 1.75 cup packages) in Chinle. We also saw a heavy haul tractor-trailer-tractor with 82 wheels on the ground parked near the San Juan River. It appeared to be carrying a piece bound for the new Phelps Dodge mine in Safford.
20 May 2007 Sunday
This was the official start of the bicycle trip. After an abbreviated slumber, we left Stadium House (where I lived during my senior year at BYU in 1969) and rode part way up Provo Canyon, around parts of Deer Creek Reservoir, along parts of highway 40 to I80, took I80 to I84, then followed I84 to Mountain Green. The first part of the ride went well, but headwinds along I84 negated the downhill grade (following the Weber River). This was to become a theme throughout much of the trip. A strong tailwind, a smooth concrete road, and steep grade on Highway 40 near Jordanelle State Park combine to give me a new maximum velocity of 43.1 mph. Around that speed the bike became a bit squirrely, and fishtailed to the point that I think may learn to be satisfied with that as my lifetime V-max. From Mountain Green, we drove to the summit of Trappers Loop and rode to Huntsville then on to Eden. West of Eden, we drove to the summit of highway 62 and rode over rough dirt road to Avon, then on to Paradise, then on to Logan. The day's riding ended in wind and light rain at 2850 North Main in North Logan, UT. We camped that night at a State Campground up Logan Canyon, where we shared a table with about 10,000 inchworms. Three days later we were still finding inchworms in our gear. We cooked chicken noodle soup on the stove, and brownies in the dutchoven.
21 May 2007 Monday
This morning we awoke to rain (an occurrence that also became a theme for the trip). Dodging rain showers we cooked breakfast burros and packed. These showers forced us to drive north into Idaho along highway 91 to Red Rock Junction. From there we rode north against an increasing headwind to McCammon where we again loaded up the bike and drove north through Pocatello to Blackfoot and then (along highway 26) to Atomic City. From there, we rode back to Blackfoot. The wind was blowing at least 35 mph, but it was a crosswind and was of little help with the ride. We then took Highway 93 to the top of Willow Pass, and rode through a snowstorm to Challis. I thought it looked too threatening to ride, but Nathen (declaring that he didn't drive across two states just for the fun of it) kicked me out and I was off. It indeed snowed, and I discovered why riding in a blizzard is a bad idea. In a word, vision! Glasses become opaque within 90 seconds, but riding 20 mph into falling snow without eye protection produces a sensation comparable to 100 needles being stuck in your eyes. Fortunately, it didn't last long, and the remainder of the downhill jaunt into Challis was exhilarating. Dave and BettyAnn Elliott left Provo about noon and were to meets us that evening, but their cell phone malfunctioned, and we (after calling their house) were left wondering and waiting. We camped at the Challis Hot Spring Campground where we dined on pork loin, mashed potatoes, green beans, and a salad. Here some surprisingly tame deer wandered into camp, and Nathen took some photos.
22 May 2007 Tuesday
This morning we awoke to light snow. The campground offered a chance to swim in the hot springs, but we opted for a hot shower instead, and after partaking of huevos rancheros and fried potatoes, we again took to the road. This portion of the trip contained an 80 mile stretch along the Salmon river. I had been anticipating this ride for almost of two years (it was the piece that made me choose this particular route), but it was supremely disappointing. A head wind negated the downhill grade and I struggled to hold 12 mph. It looked downhill and the wind didn't feel strong, but I just couldn't go. I stopped twice and checked the bicycle to verify that nothing was rubbing or dragging (and pumped up the tires), but after toiling for 35 miles (to milepost 276) I decided to load up the bicycle and go somewhere that rivers don't flow uphill. The only redeeming virtue of this day was that Nathen saw a bald eagle dive into the river and catch a fish. He even snapped a blury image of the bird flying away with its dinner. Driving along we met Dave and BettyAnn, and together we rode another 5 miles (45:05.14 N, 113:53.87 W to 45:09.20 N, 113:53.53W) along the Salmon River, again struggling to maintain reasonable speed. We then drove north to Lost Trail Pass (elevation 6994'), and rode back south to North Fork. In this pass, we again encountered a snowstorm. This ride down was wetter, colder, curvier, had more vehicle traffic, and was absolutely no fun at all. My eyes hurt just thinking about it. We got soaked from the wet pavement, and Dave (who was wearing fingerless gloves) suffered hypothermia to the point of not being able to reliably squeeze his brakes. When we had dried out a bit, we drove back to the top of Lost Trail Pass, and rode north (entering Montana) to Sula. The daylight was far spent, and we camped in a state campground and cooked pizza in the rain on a fire that struggled to burn.
23 May 2007 Wednesday
This morning we had breakfast sandwiches. We left from Sula (where we saw a mountain goat grazing by the side of the road) and rode north along highway 93 (skipping a stretch near Florence due to rain) to Missoula. Dave rode with me to near Stevensville, and at that point his hands, and neck got to hurting to the point that he again opted to became a motorist. Riding through MIssoula, I got separated from support car (Nathen passed without seeing me), and got drenched in the rain. I continued north on Highway 93 to the junction with I90 where Nathen drove me to the top of the pass near Evaro and I rode back to the freeway. Nathen rescued me and again drove me to the top of the pass near Evaro and I rode north along Highway 93 to St. Ignatius. With time waning, we drove north to camp with Dave and BettyAnn in Mission Meadows RV Campground in Ronan (hot showers). At this latitude (higher than 47 degrees north) it didn't get dark until well after 10 p.m.. We cooked chimi's, Spanish rice, and fried bread. There is water everywhere, even in seemingly isolated 6 inch depressions, and along with it are water fowl, turtles, and a plethora of frogs. Nathen photographed a beaver (or at least its head) swimming towards its lodge. Not surprisingly, it rained again that night.
24 May 2007 Thursday
Breakfast this morning consisted of biscuits and bacon gravy, which we shared with Dave and BettyAnn. We drove north to the hill overlooking Polson on the south shore of Flathead Lake, and rode down the hill to the intersection of Highways 93 and 35 (47:41.45N, 114:07.42W). This was the northern most point we reached on the trip. The internet weather forecast (courtesy of Terre via cellphone) indicated 80% chance of rain or snow in Babb. Logan Pass in Glacier National Park had no forecast but lies about 15 miles away and 2100' higher (suggesting 80% chance of snow), and snowplows were currently at work. After some protracted discussion, I decided to abandon the goal of reaching Canada and to complete missing portions of ride south this point. Now I wish I had at least gone to have a look, but that opportunity is gone. Dave and BettyAnn departed and I rode back from Polson to St. Ignatius, completing everything north of Missoula. We drove south, completing the short missing portion near Florence (which I skipped due to a rain squall), then continued south into Idaho stopping at the to ending point on the ride with Dave (45:09.20N, 113:53.53W). From there I rode back through Salmon to North Fork (the wind was favorable in this direction, and played tag with several rain showers but avoided getting drenched). In North Fork, I encountered a sign prohibiting bicyclist from riding across an intersection. We camped in Twelve Mile Canyon, near Elk bend. It was clear and dry in the evening, but rained before morning. Nathen noted wear on drivers side rear tire (probably due to not having an alignment after replacing the CV boot). We ate fish, French fries, and salad, next to a tree bearing evidence of having 32 hunting kills hung in it.
25 May 2007 Friday
We breakfasted on strawberry crepes, then drove to milepost 276 and rode back to starting point in previous ride with Dave (45:05.14N, 113:53.87W).
Again unfavorable winds negated the grade and it was a struggle. Somewhere along here, Nathen took a photograph of me passing the 45th parallel (half way between the equator and the North Pole). While waiting for me, Nathen backed the car into a hole, but managed to extricate himself (that could have been messy). This completed the very unsatisfying ride along the Salmon River and from there we drove to the top of Willow Pass, and rode to Atomic City. In the morning, very favorable wind made the miles fly by. Conditions deteriorated in the afternoon near Butte City, and the last five miles was a battle. The soles of my feet hurt from pressing on the petals. After completing this portion, we drove to Gooseneck Campground near McCammon. Memorial Day weekend had just started and we experienced difficulties finding a campsite. Nathen noted that the steel belt now showing on drives side rear tire, and he rotated the rear tires so bad one was on passenger's side rear. We discussed getting an alignment when we replaced the tire, then making an all night drive back to northern Montana to complete our unfinished business there. We ate stew and crackers,and during the night again experienced rain.
26 May 2007 Saturday
Breakfast consisted of cheese crisps with chopped chili. Nathen drove North to Pocatello and purchased a new tire, replacing the bad one on the passengers side rear, but was unable to get an alignment. This completely negated the idea of returning to Montana (which was probably a bad one to begin with, as it would have taken much of our sleep time for two contiguous nights). I rode from McCammon to Pocatello, and then experienced difficulties rendezvousing with Nathen. We lost an hour or so here, then I rode on to Blackfoot, and Nathen (sitting by the side of the road awaiting my arrival [at about 5 mile intervals]) was privileged to visit with three of the local constabulary in relatively rapid succession (he had visited with one the previous day near Atomic City). This completed the route north of Pocatello, and we drove south to Red Rock Junction and I rode to North Logan. We broke this ride into several sections, and some were ridden headed south and other headed north (unsuccessfully trying to catch a favorable wind). We probably would have been ahead to have ignored the local conditions and taken the ride in a single shot (south to north, the direction of the prevailing wind). I encountered heavy rain crossing the Cub River in Franklin Idaho, but Nathen rescued me before I melted. This completed the route in Idaho, so we drove south and camped in the Wasatch National Forest (on Flint Grove Road [the only dirt road on the route {Note to myself: Avoid dirt roads on future rides.}]) between Avon and Liberty, Utah. We ate lasagna and garlic bread, but I was too tired (and not hungry enough) to prepare the planned salad. For the first time on the trip, we passed a night without precipitation.
27 May 2007 Sunday
Breakfast was bagels and cream cheese, with sausage (leftover from making lasagna the previous evening). The second half of rough dirt road I rode slowly (3 to 4 mph), but was still jostled enough to lose a bolt out of the water bottle holder on the bike. We saw three hot air balloons in the still morning air (and rode by one of them being recovered). I rode through Liberty and on to Eden, then we drove to the pass on Trappers Loop Road and I rode to Mountain Green. We drove to Jordenelle State park and rode from there through Midway and Charleston, then completed the missing pieces around Deer Creek Reservoir. There was a construction zone where I would have been restricted to a space about 18 inches wide (with trucks and RV pulling boats passing inches from my left elbow) and I decided it was too dangerous (see Ameilia, I don't really have a death wish..). This leg of the route is 5 to 10 miles long and goes from start of construction zone to past the tunnel (40:24.74 N, 111:30.21W to 40:21.89N, 111:33.89 W). This completed the trip (at least the part we were able to do) about noon, so drove headed for Nathen's house, arriving about 10 p.m.. I stayed at Nathen's house this evening.
28 May 2007 Monday
I returned home and spent the day washing, cleaning, and stowing gear. It was late afternoon before I finished.
What an adventure! I was tired for most of the next week.
People at work ask how someone can make a ride like this. Conceptually it is simple. First you mash on the petal on the left side of the bike, then you mash on the petal on the right side of the bike and then you repeat the process 135,000 times. It seems pretty straight forward to me...
I started the trip with three goals (two of which were slightly redundant). Each day I wanted to ride 7 hours, traverse a minimum of 100 miles, and maintain an average speed of 15 mph. I was successful on the speed, but the time and distance ones eluded me. I came close, but the weather... (and yes it was the weather, and no, it had nothing to do with the fact that I am a fat old man...). This table below shows the daily time/distance/average speeds. The 92 miles per day assumes a half day riding on 5-27-07.
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Packing to go on the trip. I had to remove the back seat and lay the seat back down to accommodate all the stuff we took.
In the car ready to go. Note the welder Nathen "bought."
Note the petroleum product in the wheel well.
The half axle apart.
Screwdriver ventilating the boot (to release excess pressure trapped therein).
A heavy load stopped near the San Juan River. Nathen counted 84 tires on the ground.
Leaving Stadium House where I lived when I started the first ride (Provo to Mexico) in 1969.
In the lower portion of Provo Canyon.
Nathen finds a cell phone tree.
Near Deer Creek Lake in Provo Canyon.
Truck traffic in Provo Canyon was heavy and constant.
Farmland in Eden.
Dirt road near Flint Grove Road between Liberty and Avon.
Summit of Trapper Loop Road between Mountain Green and Huntsville.
Rain threatening between Liberty and Avon.
The car performed well--over looking Paradise.
Many inch worms camped with us in Logan Canyon.
Approaching the Idaho border near Richmond.
Entering Idaho (one of several times).
Riding through Marsh Valley.
Riding near Swan Lake.
Nathen gets acquainted with four of Idaho's finest, three on the same day. By this point in the trip we were both pretty scruffy looking, and I guess they felt at home talking to us. I suspect that none of them would have been happy to know they made it onto grandmasweb.
Idaho National Laboratory. Located pretty close to the middle of no-where.
Butte City near Arco has a small population (and are proud of it).
Riding between Arco and Atomic City.
Number hill next to Arco. Senior class has painted graduating year on cliff since 1920.
Riding in front of the sign for Mackay (Population 547).
North of Mackay.
The sign point to free campsites. They are all over the national forests in Idaho.
In front of Borah Peak. At 12662 feet, the highest peak in Idaho.
Another view of Borah Peak.
Icicles hanging from sign in Willow pass.
Can you believe Nathen kicked me out to ride in this weather.
Riding north from Willow pass.
Storm clouds gather near Willow pass.
Lowering storm clouds near Willow pass.
Riding through the snow north of Willow pass.
Snow on jacket after riding down from Willow Pass.
Further down the road from Willow pass (visible in the background) the weather was much improved.
Nathen at Challis Hot Springs campground on the Salmon river.
Camped at Challis Hot Springs waiting for Dave and BettyAnn.
Much better weather the day we rode south from Willow Pass.
Nathen taking photos of deer with the long lense and tripod. All the photo taken with the telephoto lense were blurry.
Nathen in front of the hot springs.
Nathen wanted to see a moose, but this cutout was as close as we came.
Salmon river flowing upstream.
Nathen pumping up bicycle tire in Cathedral Gorge on the Salmon river.
Aerial view of bicycle rider. How did he do that?
The 45th Parallel.
Nathen cutting up salad. We ate well on the trip. If fact we had too much food and only made one of the desserts we had planned.
Yet another scenic view along the Salmon river. You could make ten years worth of scenic calaneders from photos taken along that river.
Blurry bald eagle flying with fish taken from Salmon river
Riding along the Salmon River near North Fork.
Elk in a sanctuary along near Elk Bend on the Salmon river.
Dave finally finds us.
Dave and I riding along the Bitteroot river.
Scenic views all along the Salmon river.
The Shoup Bridge over the Salmon River near Eightmile Canyon.
A sign disallowing bicycle riding in a intersection in North Fork, Idaho.
Riding through a snow storm near Lost Trail Summit.
Lost Trail Summit between Idaho and Montana. Elevation 6995.
Riding down from Lost Trail Pass into Sula, Mt.
Dave and I riding down from Lost Trail Pass.
Low clouds as we left Sula.
Dave and I riding through Darby, MT.
Dave and I riding into Hamilton, Mt.
Riding down Ravalli Hill into Ravalli, Mt.
Riding through the pines near Evaro, MT.
Riding into St Ignatius, MT.
A "V" of ducks flying over heard near Kicking Horse Lake, Mt.
Overlooking Flathead Lake, MT. This was the northern most point of the trip.
Home at last. Working in scouting for several years taught me that any trip without a fatality was a good one.